Semi-safe Central American non-tours

[dsteele]

This is a second topic to "Peru -- Should I go back?" and I would appreciate any advice from those who know central america.

 

My wife and I decided that we would take a Central American vacation during her spring break. She's not opposed to the back-country vacation and neither one of us wants to take a package vacation with blue-haired little old folk on the American express.

 

However, I wanted to go to Guatemala and made the mistake of printing out sheets from the lonely planet web site. My wife said she doesn't want to be raped during the day or robbed. She doesn't want the package vacaiton and resort AAA approved hotels any more than I do, but she takes warnings of criminal activity much more seriously than I do.

 

As an aside, quite frankly, I'll go to Guatemala in 2006 after the Jamboree all on my own while she's on the A.T. and just show her the pictures after.

 

In the interim, for 2004 -- we're looking at Cancun or Beleize -- anyone have recommendations on ruins to see, local hotels and restaurants (English is not mandatory -- we'll feel our way along) and open-air markets? Car rental information and guide to Guides would be helpful as well.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Dave

[dsteele]

I have to admit that I'm a little torn. Belize sounds very exciting to my wife, but boring to me. They speak English and there is little danger. Men I know who are 40 years my senior and their wives have been there. I'd get excited about the Yukatan, but my own mother has been there recently. Where's the danger? It's nothing like Peru.

 

I can think of no one I'd rather have with me in times of danger than my wife. However, in spite of her two black belts (kyu-kido and Ju-Jitsu and her blue belt in Judo) or behaps because of them, she has no interest in danger and a great fear of it.

 

I won't make her face her fears. Lord knows I've faced mine (and there are many) but fears have to be faced alone. At least that's my philosophy.

 

So I'll go on the "safe" vacation if need be, but if there's a compromise that you can recommend, I sure would appreciate it.

 

As far as I'm concerned, living in Racine, WI is about as dangerous as living in Cuzco, Peru. I've been in the worst neighborhoods in both places. Violence is where violence is, at least in my experience. If you're prepared to face violence and have peace in your heart, it's rare you'll find violence, but you're prepared if you do.

 

I'll welcome your thoughts.

 

The only given is that my wife and I will have our first vacation together since our honeymoon 11 years ago and it will be in Central America. The degree of difficulty is all that remains to be determined.

 

Your thoughts will help. Even if it's to tell me I'm nuts and we should be in Puerto Ricco drinking Mai Tai's.

 

DS

[johnsned]

Hello Dave,

 

I am very familiar with Central America and have very close friends from all over Central America.

 

I agree the typical tour you'd get from a Travel Agency is far too bland for my tastes as well. You can however work with Travel Agents from the country of interest and get a real Native look at the country.

 

Costa Rica is great, so is Guatemala, there is a really great city called Antigua really beautiful also there is Pacaya and Calderas, real great eco tourism there.

 

What I have done is booked a tour through a local and stayed in pensin, it's like renting a room with a local family. They are extremely hospitable and take amazing care of you, they will steer you in the right direction and help you find things off the beaten track.

 

Anywhere is Central America is safe these days, there is some political tension in Chiapas, Mexico and also in Nicaragua, even so very safe.

 

Knowing the language will greatly enhance your experience and will increase your possibilities. I am fluent in Spanish that has more than come in handy, the more remote the location the less likely youll run into English speakers.

 

Sounds like you are going to have a great vacation, need a guide?

 

John

 

[dsteele]

Thanks for the offer, but I don't need a guide. I brought up the Guatemala idea, but made the mistake of printing off lonelyplanet.com's thoughts on Guatamala and showed them to Mrs. Steele. She shot that one down.

 

Is Belieze as tame as it sounds? How much English is spoken there? How are the ruins?

 

DS

[packsaddle]

Belize is safe, English is the national language but many natives make an effort to speak it (first language is Mayan). The ruins are good but better in Mexico (my opinion). The best thing about Belize is the barrier reef (2nd largest in the world) and it is still in pretty good condition (compared to the Keys - 3rd largest - really sad shape and getting worse).

My first choice is still Costa Rica. Absolutely safe. I flew my young family there years ago, rented a car, and winged it. Never been there before. We had a great time. Absolutely safe. The worst you might experience is a pickpocket (unlikely). No ruins but the natural features are spectacular, magnificent volcanic mountains, cloud forests, wildlife, wild rivers, waterfalls, beaches. I can recommend a great undiscovered hotel in San Jose (former presidential palace) and endless places to explore. Plus Scouting is a big deal there. I'll be going again during spring break as well.

[dsteele]

I like the sounds of Costa Ricca, except I'm not so much interested in econo-tourism. I want ruins and open marketplaces. My wife wants safety and to be with me.

 

I find this slightly odd considering her martial arts background -- but her knowledge is theoretical. I don't have an ounce of experience that our current armed forces have, but a mugging attempt was made on me in Peru and my attacker suffered far worse than I did. I'm not worried about danger in foreign countries -- which probably makes me a fool. Okay, skip the probably.

 

In deference to her, we're leaning toward a safer place. San Jose sounds good, but I'm leaning toward Belieze or Chiapas, Mexico. I do have to say (in spite of the thread about women in the military) if I have to be in a crisis of violence, I'd rather have my wife with me than just about anyone else. She's got a good head on her shoulders and has put me on the floor without thinking about it more than once -- that martial arts stuff WORKS after a few years of practice.

 

It's a matter of comfort, I suppose.

 

I hear there are some excellent archaeological sites in Nicuragua, Honduras and Guatemala, but fear I may never see them. I won't put my wife through the worry of having me there by myself and will probably not outlive her. At least I hope I don't outlive her. I love her too much to die before her and leave her with the pain of my absence and love her too much to want to live without her.

 

Perhaps I should be grateful for my Peruvian adventure of 1987 (not a stable period in that countries history) and content myself with the wonderful life I have her in the U.S.

 

Is this a midlife crisis I wonder. Already had and sold the BMW, so maybe not. I'm open to theories, though.

 

DS

[packsaddle]

OK, skip the resort nonsense and drive around the Yucatan in Mexico, hitting all the big Mayan sites. Then keep going across the mountains to Oaxaca. THAT town is a real gem. The ruins are Zapotec at Monte Alban and Mitla, others nearby. Spectacular! Plenty of stuff to do and you'll love the market there. At Christmas they have a radish festival that is a real trip. It's my favorite place in the country. If you want some more water keep going to the Pacific coast, great undeveloped beaches.

Want an adventure? Drive to Mexico city from Oaxaca on the backroads, should take most of a day. Stop at every available gas station, there were two when I did it. Pay no attention to the dirt road that you're on when the map says it's paved. If a truck knocks the door off your car, duct tape it back on and keep on going. There is a town on that route (Teotitlan, I think, maybe Tehuacan) that has really nice pottery.

Take a dummy wallet to sacrifice to the odd thief. I was robbed at an inspection station on that route - don't ask THEM for directions. But if you do, have a dummy camera or CD player ready to sacrifice. When they accuse you of something and threaten you with prison have your wife start crying and you just hold your wrists out for the handcuffs. That usually backs them off a little. They just want a payoff. Have a great trip!

[dsteele]

Packsaddle:

 

Thank you for the excellent advice.

 

We will have a good trip. I do think, however, that most of my adventures will occur at night when my wife is asleep. She's a cautious one and I'm a fool-hardy man. I'll go for walks when she sleeps and will encounter what I encounter.

 

My friends I knew in High School always said, Dave Steele is Dave Steele. Like it or not, he really doesn't care.

 

Well, I do care, but if I want to wander in a back alley at midnight, that's where you'll find me. If I don't, you won't find me there. Sounds pretty simple to me.

 

The double wallet thing -- been there before and will be there again.

 

the other night, my wife (whom I love deeply) said, "I don't understand why a lazy man like you would want to stay in local hotels instead of a resort.) She was referring to our trip. She knows me. I am, however, not a lazy man. I'm a man in love with luxury and she's a woman who hikes the Appalachian Trail 2-3 weeks a year. She just doesn't know that sometimes I like to rough it and take my chances. Sometimes, for me, is once every 15 years or so.

 

It is time. I'm tired of luxury.

 

Midlife crisis? I don't know. Test in my maturity? I'll vote for that!

 

Ta-da-da-ta-da! Charge!

 

 

lemme at 'em!

 

DS