back pack for philmont

[scoutfreakdad]

Any suggestions on a back pack that will comfortably bear a load up to 85-90lbs, that would be good for Philmont.

[Eagle92]

Well it depends. Seriously though I wouldn't look at specific models, but rather brands. I recommend going to some stores, bring your own weight, and try on packs. Comparison shop, and get the one that best suits you.

 

As for the 85-90 pounds, isn't that a little too much? BUT if you do need that much, try a military MOLLE pack.

[Old_OX_Eagle83]

85-90lbs, you do know there is a max pack weight, correct? Your Ranger will shake that down to size for sure.

[Basementdweller]

wow what in the world are you taking???????

 

 

Philmonts gear list is pretty generous, too. I would strive for a pack weighing no more than 30 pounds with out consumables. Which should put you close to 40 with food and water.

 

Like shoes this is not a thing to just buy on a recommendation.....go to your outfitter and try it on before you buy it. It is worth a couple of hour drive if you don't have one close to where you live.

[BrentAllen]

Two questions:

 

What % of your body weight is 85 - 90 lbs?

 

How many dutch ovens are you taking? :-)

 

Seriously, what are you carrying? I couldn't get my pack up to half that weight, if I tried. My "heavy" pack is an Alps Mountaineering Denali 5500 (cubic inches) which is plenty big for even cold weather backpacking. It weighs a little over 5 lbs and can haul 45 lbs easily. It is a very good pack for the money (45% discount for Scouts). My "light" pack is a Mountainsmith Ghost LT (3000 cubic inches) that weighs 2 2/4 lbs. A full load with it is 25 - 30 lbs.

 

Your pack without food should weigh less than 30 lbs, based on the following, which are some pretty liberals weights. Some of these can be cut pretty easily, getting your pack down to 25 lbs, without food:

Pack - 5 lbs

Tent - 5 lbs

Water - 4 lbs

Sleeping bag - 3 lbs

Sleeping pad - 2 lbs

Rain suit - 2 lbs

Stove/pot/fuel - 2 lbs

Mess kit - 1 lb

Clothes - 2 lbs

First Aid kit - 2 lbs

Toiletries - 1 lb

Head lamp, etc. - 1 lb

[scoutfreakdad]

Ok guys,

BSA rules dont allow me to smoke that stuff, lol

 

Im not going to take 90lbs to Phil Mont, I am progressively building up weight in strength training for NTIER.

 

See my strength training string. The BSA physical part D states

 

Each person must be able to carry a 50- to 85-pound pack or canoe from a quarter-mile to 2 miles several times a day on rough, swampy, and rocky portages and paddle 10 to 15 miles per day, often against a headwind. Climatic conditions can range from 30 to 100 degrees in summer/autumn

 

I have been shredding my 20 plus year old packs from my garage and am ready to buy some seriously strong ergonomic packs, I will pack light when we go, honestly 60 lbs is already starting to get tough, but I need packs that will hold up

 

I havent bought nice backpacks before, good brands and types are appreciated, oh yes and if there is something that really sucks and should be avoided thats nice to know too.

 

Thanks for your help

 

[Eagle92]

Well if you want rugged.

 

US GI ALICE Pack, Large, Mine is 25+ years old and still going.

 

US GI MOLLE Pack,

 

USMC ILBE pack.

[ntrog8r]

Good brands - and you pay for what you get - include Osprey and Arc'Teryx.

 

An external frame may work better for you at those weights than an internal frame but there are models that will work depending on your preference. You'll need to be concious of the height of external frame so it does not get in the way when you need to portage. Since durability is a concern at these weights, stay away from the new ultralight materials they are less durable than heavier fabrics. Echoing others, YOUR fit and comfort are the primary consideration for selection but it sounds like you already know that.

 

As far as mil surplus goes, I'd stay away from the "Alice" pack. I've used them for years, I have two that use for various things I'd consider abusive to my other bags (they ARE durable) but the straps are guaranteed to get in your way when trekking, they are heavy, offer little weather protection for your gear, the frame is TERRIBLE, the original straps - also terrible, the torso length is too short, etc, etc. If you want to go with a surplus mil bag the newer Molle II (Large) Rucksack is light years ahead in design and function.

 

A pretty exhaustive discussion on selecting a backpack can be found on REI at:

http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/backpack.html

 

Good luck in your gear hunt and have a great trip.

[Stosh]

I'm thinking you have two very different expectations designed for your plans. Carrying an 80# duffle a couple of miles on a portage occasionally is not the same as carrying 80# around Philmont all day long is mountainous terrain.

 

When I was in the BWCA we had a 3 person crew for each canoe. 4 duffles and a canoe per crew. Each duffle held about 60#'s a pieace. Two would carry a duffle on the front and the other on his back. The third crew member carried the 80# canoe. The boys always stuck me with carrying the canoe. At least until they did the math and figured out they were either carrying 120# or double portaging. I was only carrying 80#.

 

For NTier one can get away with 120# in a double duffle, and if it's late in the day and you're tired, you can always double portage. You also figure that for about 80-90% of the time you aren't carrying any weight and are resting up for the next portage, a luxury you won't have at Philmont.

 

Think this through. The reason they don't make 80# packs is because unless you're 18 and in the military, most people aren't going to do well with it.

 

You also need to take into consideration to an even greater extent, at NTier you use your feet 10% of the time at Philmont it is 100% at a time. If you normally exert a load on your feet at 200# every day, now your feet will need to endure 280# with each step.

 

A voyageur of the 1700-1800's could portage pelt bales that weighed up to 600# for a short trek along a portage. No mountaineous terrain. That same person would not be able to pull that off at Philmont!

 

I've been to both BWCA and Philmont. I normally plan that I can carry twice the gear at BCWA than I can at Philmont. 80# canoe and 40# backpack. That's my limit on both.

 

I know it is standard fare at BWCA to have Duluth Packs, but if you show up to Philmont with one, you'll probably be asked to stay at base camp.

 

Your mileage may vary,

 

Stosh(This message has been edited by jblake47)

[Eagle92]

Somehow I missed the N Tier reference. Yep BIG difference between doing a 50 miler afoot and afloat. I'm lazy, I love doing it afloat.

 

When I did my expedition in Canada, the troop used ALICE packs, minus the frames. Some of us had "expereinced" ALICE's with the older straps than did not come with the "drop off buckles," the little device that allows the pack to come off by just pulling the tab, while those with the new ALICE packs did. What the shop did for us with the used packs was split a set of the drop off straps between 2 used ALICE packs, because those straps are a great way to secure the pack to the thwarts. I still have the pack, and have used it on every single float trip I have done save one, and that's b/c the company I worked for wanted me to use their gear (was not happy about that). I think ALICE packs are great for canoeing.

[Stosh]

Although it does nothing for one's knees and feet, have you considered using a tump-line. I attached one to my standard backpack and it works wonders. Now I can alternate carrying loads from hip to spine and occasionally shoulders for a short time to rest hip and spine. All this can be done without stopping.

 

A second tump-line on the middle thwart can also improve the pressure on the back of the neck and shoulders that carry a 80# canoe. Also, the dorky horse-collar PFD makes a terrific neck pad as well. I also covered the thwart with pipe insulation for even more pressure release.

 

As long as your legs and feet can take it, the load is adjustable for the rest of the body.

 

I found that with the tump-line, I could add 20# without much effort and still cover the same distances. Eventually my limit was reached by what my legs and feet could tolerate and had nothing to do with the pack, just the weight.

 

Most packs are measured in cubic inches and with internals, the sleeping bag is considered part of the measurement. Most internal frame packs have compression straps on them, the externals do not. There's nothing in the book that says you can't add them to help insure the seams from blowing out on the pack itself. Just make sure if you add more weight to the external frame, you carry extra pins. But if you do it right, the pressure straps can also take the extra weight off the pins along with pack's seams. 3/4" - 1" nylon straps with metal double-D rings should serve you quite well. Pressure straps don't need quick release and the metal double-D rings hold up better than the plastic clips.

 

Your mileage may vary,

 

Stosh

[acco40]

Make sure that the back pack will be able to comfortably fit around the llama you plan on carrying the pack.

 

For myself, I carry about 30 - 35 lbs in an internal frame back back - EMS brand. I you are tall - I'm not - they have a "long tail" that works well.

[scoutfreakdad]

Make sure that the back pack will be able to comfortably fit around the llama you plan on carrying the pack.

 

 

 

 

Lmao, I can use the one M J gave me when he came camping with my boys. Is llama meat tasty?

 

The problem Im having is straps getting ripped off my cruddy old garage packs, Did I mention it is strength training the pack is for, we only have 8 training days left till NTIER any way.